While freestanding decks of any size can be built without footings that extend to the frost depth (R403.1.4.1 Frost Protection, Exception #3), grade-level decks are prime candidates for taking advantage of this code provision. You can build decks sized 10 feet by 20 feet, 12 feet by 16 feet, or 14 feet square without a permit, and-theoretically-if you need a larger deck, you could build adjacent deck frames that each are 200 square feet or less and don’t lap continuous decking over them, without a permit. So, provided your code jurisdiction has not amended out this code section, you save time and cost by not having to apply for a permit or wait for inspections. No Permit NeededĪ huge bonus of building a freestanding grade-level deck is that a building permit isn’t required as long as the deck’s area is 200 square feet or less (see 2015 IRC, R105.2, Work exempt from permit, #10: Decks not exceeding 200 square feet in area, that are not more than 30 inches above grade at any point, are not attached to a dwelling, do not serve the exit door required by Section R311.4). Of course, one downside to building a grade-level deck is that I’m bent over all day. And while generally built like an elevated deck, a grade-level deck has some differences and specific issues that should be addressed when you’re designing and installing it, to avoid problems and make the most of its advantages. But generally speaking, I apply the term to decks that are up to 30 inches above grade, since guardrails are required for any decks that are higher than that. There is no standard height for a “grade-level” deck-the maximum measurement from grade to the deck surface could be 6 inches, 12 inches, 24 inches, or more. Even in areas where this isn’t the case, grade-level decks may be worth a slight premium, since they can be used to add visual interest and differentiate outdoor living spaces in ways that hardscaped surfaces can’t. As a result, a grade-level deck is generally more cost-effective than hardscaping, at least in my northern climate.

And when they’re freestanding, there are no ledger or lateral-load connections to deal with and no requirements for frost-depth footings.

They are faster to frame than elevated decks and usually don’t require guardrails. Breyer Construction & Landscape A low deck can be a cost-effective alternative to hardscaping, especially when the framing for a shade structure can be factored into the design.

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